A Wild Test of Euell Gibbons' Classic Recipe - What Worked, What Didn't, and What You Can Learn
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Let’s dive into the world of pawpaw pies by testing a classic recipe from the legendary Euell Gibbons. Known for his foraging expertise, Gibbons’ pawpaw pie recipe has been a staple for those looking to explore the unique flavor of this native fruit.
After testing the recipe myself, I’m excited to share the results. From what worked beautifully to a few unexpected challenges, I’ll walk you through my experience and provide helpful tips and recommendations for anyone looking to try their hand at making this pawpaw dessert.
Let’s see how Gibbons’ pie stacks up in today’s kitchen.
Who was Euell Gibbons?
Euell Gibbons (September 8, 1911 – December 29, 1975) was an American author, naturalist, and advocate for wild foods, known for his deep connection to nature and his pioneering work in foraging. His 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus brought his love for edible plants into the public eye, inspiring countless individuals to explore the world of wild food. Gibbons became a household name in the 1970s with his memorable appearances in Grape Nuts commercials.
In his book, Gibbons shares his fondness for pawpaws. His favorite way to enjoy them? In a fluffy pie filling, which can also be served as a parfait. This recipe was also tested by The Junior League of Charleston, West Virginia and compiled in the cookbook Mountain Measures: A Collection of West Virginia Recipes (first printing in 1974).
“My own favorite papaw preparation is a fluffy mixture that can be used as a pie filling or served in parfait glasses.” – Euell Gibbons, from Stalking the Wild Asparagus chapter “The Papaw: A Tropical Fruit Come North”
Let’s Make “Papaw” Pie!
What You’ll Need
Graham Cracker Crust
Ingredients
- 18 graham crackers
- ¼ cup sugar
- ½ cup unsalted butter
- ½ teaspoon unflavored gelatin
“For a Graham Cracker Crust, crush 18 graham crackers with a rolling pin, then combine with ¼ cup of sugar, ½ cup of melted butter or margarine and ½ teaspoon unflavored gelatin. Mix well, then press evenly into a 9-inch pie plate.” – Euell Gibbons, from Stalking the Wild Asparagus chapter “Economics of Wild Strawberries”
Graham cracker photo by King of Hearts, used under [CC BY-SA 3.0] / Wikimedia Commons.
Kitchen Notes
The process sounded straightforward, but I quickly ran into the biggest challenge of the entire recipe test.
What does “18 graham crackers” mean?
As it turns out, a quarter of a sheet equals one graham cracker; for this recipe, use 4.5 sheets or 18 quarters.
Pro Tip: Place graham crackers in a one-gallon Ziploc bag and use a rolling pin to crush them—this keeps everything contained and makes mixing the dry ingredients much easier.
While the crust came together without much hassle, I must admit that it wasn’t my favorite graham cracker crust. I would recommend using a personal favorite recipe or take the easy route and buy a pre-made 9-inch crust from the store.
Try a pecan or walnut crust if you’re looking for an alternative. The nutty flavor adds a delicious twist that pairs well with the pie filling.
Pawpaw Pie Filling
Ingredients
- ½ cup brown sugar
- ¼ cup sugar
- 1 envelope unflavored gelatin
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 2/3 cup milk
- 3 eggs
- 1 cup pawpaw puree
“In a saucepan, mix together ½ cup of brown sugar, 1 envelope unflavored gelatin and ½ teaspoon of salt. Stir into this 2/3 cup of milk and 3 slightly beaten egg yolks. Cook and stir the mixture until it comes to a boil. Remove from the fire and stir in 1 full cup of strained papaw pulp. Chill until it mounds slightly when spooned. This will take 20 to 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Shortly before the mixture is sufficiently set, beat the 3 egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually add ¼ cup of sugar, beating until stiff peaks form. Fold the partly set papaw mixture thoroughly into the egg whites. Pour into a 9-inch graham cracker crust, or into parfait glasses and chill until firm. Then lock the doors to keep the neighbors out.” – Euell Gibbons, from Stalking the Wild Asparagus chapter “The Papaw: A Tropical Fruit Come North
Kitchen Notes
This recipe is incredibly easy to prepare and doesn’t require a lot of pawpaw pulp. In fact, it’s a great way to use frozen pawpaw pulp that’s been thawed, so you can enjoy the bright, tropical flavor of pawpaws even during the off season.
My top recommendation is to swap out the brown sugar in the original recipe and use white granulated sugar instead. Light brown sugar — and especially dark brown sugar — overpowers the delicate, creamy flavor of the pawpaw. However, white granulated sugar helps to highlight and complement the fruit’s natural sweetness. This small change really makes the pawpaw flavor stand out and gives the pie a fresher taste.
You can get creative when it comes to decorating the pie. Other native foraged fruits or edible flowers add a nice touch. Whether it’s a few wild berries, delicate blossoms, or a combination of both, the colorful additions not only look beautiful but also tie the pie back to the natural ingredients we’re working with. It’s a simple, tasty way to elevate the pie.
References
“Euell Gibbons.” Wikimedia Foundation, December 19, 2023, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euell_Gibbons.
“Euell Gibbons Dies at 64.” The New York Times, December 30, 1975. https://www.nytimes.com/1975/12/30/archives/euell-gibbons-dies-at-64-wrote-books-about-natural-foods.html.
Gibbons, Euell. Stalking the Wild Asparagus. D. McKay Co., 1962.
The Junior League of Charleston. Mountain Measures: A Collection of West Virginia Recipes. Charleston, WV: The Junior League of Charleston, 1974.
McPhee, John. “A Forager.” The New Yorker, April 6, 1968. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1968/04/06/a-forager.
